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Warning: This is only for NON Rack & Pinion Isuzus. This means that 98+ Amigos, Axioms and some late model Rodeos are out until another solution is found. First, some background:
On modern Isuzu IFS suspensions, the Upper Control Arm (UCA) is what limits suspension down-travel. There is a bump-stop located under it that it contacts as the wheel assembly moves down. Up-travel is limited by the lower control arm contacting a bump-stop that is located on the frame. We don't deal with that in this article. The purpose of this modification is two fold: Increase suspension down-travel, and improve the alignment after lifting. When the torsion bars are cranked, some amount of negative camber is induced into the steering geometry. This is just due to the design of the IFS system. Under ideal circumstances there should be a slightly negative camber. Too much negative camber will cause uneven tire wear, and will also decrease the traction, mostly during cornering due to the tire having a poor contact patch. By flipping the ball joint, or flipping it and using a spacer, the camber is moved back toward the norm, which is much closer to 0. Depending on your specific setup, it may go back to perfect alignment, or not, but you should have the truck aligned after front end suspension changes anyway. Disclaimer: Suspension modifications are done at your own risk. Please check bolt torque and component wear while you are making changes. The picture quality here isn't great, but it should be clear enough to use. First of all, the stock setup has the upper ball joint bolted to the top of the UCA. The part that connects to the spindle extends down through a hole in the UCA and through the spindle, where there is a castle nut and cotter pin. In the next picture you can see the upper ball joint bolted to the UCA and still attached to the spindle: 
The first step is to jack the truck up and support the frame on jack-stands. If you only have one jack you will need it later to jack up on the suspension when you are putting things back together. Jack-stands are cheap and keep things safe. Next, remove the cotter pin and then the castle nut that holds the ball joint into the spindle. A large box wrench works well. If the cotter pin isn't in good shape, spend $0.25 for a pair of new ones. Needle nose pliers work well to straighten and remove the pins. 
The next step is the one that takes the most courage. You are going to have to wail on the spindle. The ball joint has a tapered shaft, and the spindle has a tapered hole. These over time will become VERY tight (which is a good thing for the suspension), but that makes it hard to remove. Use the hammer, or a 5lb sledge if you have one to hit the spindle. BE CAREFUL. The spindle and lower control are have spring pressure pushing them down. When the ball joint breaks loose the spindle will drop 1-2". Keep everything, including yourself, out from beneath it. 
Here is what it will look like then the ball joint comes free from the spindle: 
The next step is to unbolt the ball joint from the UCA. There are 4 12mm nuts and 12mm bolts. They won't be very tight, but as always be careful not to strip them. 
Next just grab the ball joint and lift it out: 
After that, set the ball joint back into the hole in the spindle. Make sure that the two surfaces are clean and dirt free. Now is a great time to grease the ball joint, or better yet, replace it. If you are using a spacer, certainly grease it now because the grease fitting will be impossible to reach once the system is back together. Put the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint, finger tight for now. You will need to use the jack under the lower control arm to raise the spindle up enough to reach the UCA. 
If you are using a spacer, install it now. You will need longer bolts if you are going to use a spacer. If you are just flipping the ball joint, the stock bolts can be reused. Assemble them finger tight first to get all 4 holes lined up. Sometimes a screwdriver in the holes will help bring the ball joint into alignment under the UCA. Tighten the bolts to the correct torque spec. 
The last step is to tighten the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. This one should be tight. Check your service manual for the actual torque spec. When it is tight, make sure that the hole in the ball joint lines up between 2 of the ears on the castle nut, then insert the cotter pin and bend it over. 
That is it. Take it to the alignment shop, and enjoy the fact that the truck is better aligned, and has more suspension down-travel than it did stock.
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